Oct 21, 2020For all that work with little gain, what would just a set of headers and a larger exhaust (2-1/2”) system do? Werbyford wrote:Ok well based on that and a 3.00 gear (guess), the Gonkulator as-is says, with the stock 186-186 duration cam:įor all that work with little gain, what would just a set of headers and a larger exhaust (2-1/2”) system do?
I had to drive the cam out with a 3lb hammer and a big drift. It was an older style block and they thought they could run the new style parts without a plate. The cam had walked so far that opposite lifters were touching lobes that they shouldn't be.thus all the popping and cracking through the exhaust. When I tore it down, someone had put a newer style camshaft and timing set on a block WITHOUT a thrust plate. Couldn't even begin to put a load on it because it would start popping and cracking. It sounded like it was eating itself alive, just sitting there idling. First thing I do when I receive it is pop it on the dyno. It never ran well, made all kinds of nasty sounds, etc. I received a T-bird engine in several weeks ago that another engine builder had rebuilt a decade or so ago. Of course, if you go in that far you’ll want to do more, and more, and then the trans will blow out, etc.įor a cam recommendation, I'd have to know what the rearend gear ratio is (they don't always stay factory over the decades), what your goals are for peak hp rpm, sound, etc, etc. Probably about the same cost as a cam kit. WOW, almost 5 carlengths faster from a cheap crank-rods-pistons swap. With your tiny stock cam & everything else as is, here’s a 390 instead of a 352 under it all: So many folks building big-inch stuff, a 390 crank & rods are almost free. Just for fun, I Gonkulated the 1 st thing I’d change: Convert your 352 into a 390. Maybe Brent has a super-mini-roller cam that would be better than these if you really need to change it. Too big – slower than the Ed Performer cam at 194-204. This is your best choice, but I’d probably leave the stock cam in there unless you need to change it.Ī lot of work for less than a carlength in the ¼ mile.Īnd the good old “RV” cam at 204-214 duration: What about the Edelbrock Performer cam, matched to your intake, at 194-204 duration:
How bout the late 390-2bbl cam at 192-199 duration, set at 4 advance::īetter than the bigger 200-200 4bbl cam, but still not really worth changing it. In these heavy tall geared dogs, if you give up ANYTHING down low, it’s very hard to make it up again. You could stay with stock 2-piece retainers but for all the trouble I’d do 1-pc retainers while in there.New springs, single with damper, depends on cam but 390GT springs plenty good.While you’re in there, if you leave the heads on, I’d do Get that special FE-only valve spring puller from ebay and it’s pretty easy with compressed air. With those single no-damper springs you’re going to need springs no matter what. Ok well based on that and a 3.00 gear (guess), the Gonkulator as-is says, with the stock 186-186 duration cam:
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